Ernest Hill

Ernest Hill sits on a rise at Nulkaba, the northern gateway to the Pokolbin vineyards, on vines Harry Tulloch first planted for Seppelt in the early 1970s. The Wilson family bought the hill block in 1999, renamed it, and opened the cellar door in 2004, adding an alfresco tasting area in 2007 as visitor numbers grew. It stays a family-run operation, and the range is broad for its size: Semillon, Chardonnay, Verdelho and Gewurztraminer among the whites, Shiraz, Merlot and Tempranillo among the reds. The flagship bottles carry family names, the Cyril Semillon, Alexander Chardonnay, Rodney Merlot and William Henry Shiraz.

Tastings run in the air-conditioned room or outside, with premium and reserve flights on offer; the venue does not publish a price, so call (02) 4991 4418 to check. Nulkaba is the first cluster you reach coming up from Cessnock, which makes Ernest Hill a sensible opener before you push into Pokolbin proper. Views run across to the Brokenback Range and Lovedale.